Geneva

Bains des Pâquis.

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Why people send friends here.

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The Bains des Pâquis is a Geneva institution in the truest sense — not a tourist trap dressed up as one, but the real thing. A floating bathing complex on the lake, opened in 1932, with a proper seventies vintage feel that's completely authentic. The diving board. The wooden jetties. The hammam that's been running for decades. The bar with cold rosé and a Greek salad that is, genuinely, a good Greek salad. You jump in, surface, and there are the French Alps. Geneva keeps catching you off-guard.