Le Soultane
Grilled fish on the Atlantic in Mauritania. Camels on the beach. Worth it.
I'm not going to rave about this place, partly because a guy apparently drowned on that beach the day we were there — so if you go swimming, be careful, the Atlantic here is not gentle. But if you happen to find yourself in Nouakchott and want to eat grilled fish on the beach and watch camels and horses wander past, Le Soultane is where you do that.
The fish is good. Simple preparation, properly charred, rice and chips on the side. You sit right at the water looking out. Someone will bring you a hibiscus juice. The whole scene is one of those things that's genuinely hard to describe to someone who hasn't been — the beach is long and flat and slightly wild, people are swimming and riding horses and the camels are just there, doing nothing in particular.
"Camels, horses, grilled fish, the Atlantic. I don't know how else to explain Mauritania but this is a start."
Nouakchott is not on most people's itinerary. It probably should be on more. It's a proper city on the Atlantic edge of the Sahara — not obviously pretty, not set up for tourists, genuinely itself. The market in town is worth a few hours before you head out to the beach.
Le Soultane — beach restaurant at Tiouilit, Nouakchott. Get the grilled fish. Don't swim unless you know what you're doing, the current is strong. The hibiscus juice is excellent.
Tip within the tip: before heading to the beach, go to the market in town and get a blue Mauritanian headwrap. Coordinates: 32M9+QCX Nouakchott. Wear it at the beach. You'll understand when you get there.
