The big red plain in the middle of the left bank. Flea market on Wednesdays and Saturdays, skateboarders most days, families in the evenings. The MAMCO is here if you want contemporary art. It's one of those city spaces that just works — people actually use it.

Tanuki is a few streets back — the freshest sushi in Geneva. Papabou does smashburgers and natural wine. Victoria Hall is one of the most beautiful concert halls in Europe. And on Rue Rodo, the puppet theatre has been quietly putting on remarkable shows for decades.