The big red plain in the middle of the left bank. Flea market on Wednesdays and Saturdays, skateboarders most days, families in the evenings. The MAMCO is here if you want contemporary art. It's one of those city spaces that just works — people actually use it.

Tanuki is a few streets back — the freshest sushi in Geneva. And Papabou does smashburgers and natural wine on the avenue. More tips in this neighbourhood coming.