Bates, Vuka Karadžića 17, Subotica. If you find yourself in Subotica — and it is a genuinely interesting city, Art Nouveau architecture, close to the Hungarian border, very much off the usual trail — come here and get the meat platter. Order the rakia. Trust the bartender.
The more of those little glass vials I drank, the more memorable the meal became. The more my covid went away.