Two friends laughing at a table under a thatched roof at Bates, Subotica
A plane full of passengers in full hazmat suits — context for the era
Giant meat platter with roasted potatoes on a silver plate at Bates, Subotica
A steel bucket of rakia vials on ice, Bates restaurant Subotica
The waiter arriving with a tray of rakia at Bates, Subotica
Tip
The bartender said drink rakia and eat the meat platter. He was right.
Photo · Dave
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Bates

Bates, Vuka Karadžića 17, Subotica. If you find yourself in Subotica — and it is a genuinely interesting city, Art Nouveau architecture, close to the Hungarian border, very much off the usual trail — come here and get the meat platter. Order the rakia. Trust the bartender.

The more of those little glass vials I drank, the more memorable the meal became. The more my covid went away.

The move Order the meat platter. Accept the rakia.
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