HoodTip / Dave / Lavaux, Vaud
Wine · Vineyard · Lavaux, Vaud

Honour system rosé
in a UNESCO vineyard.

Leave cash, take a bottle, sit on the patio with the lake below and the Alps across the water. Domaine Saint-Amour, Lavaux.

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Domaine Saint-Amour
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Route de Bourg-en-Lavaux, Riex, Vaud
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Train from Geneva · No car needed
Lavaux terraced vineyards above Lake Geneva, UNESCO World Heritage, Vaud Switzerland

Lavaux is one of the most beautiful wine regions in the world. UNESCO-listed since 2007, it's a continuous belt of steep terraced vineyards running along the north shore of Lake Geneva between Lausanne and Montreux — vines dropping straight down to the water with the French Alps filling the horizon across the lake. The terraces were first cultivated by Benedictine and Cistercian monks in the 11th and 12th centuries. They've been producing wine here ever since.

You can just come and walk around. But in the spirit of HoodTip, here is a specific destination: Domaine Saint-Amour.

Domaine Saint-Amour Rosé d'Amour bottle held up with Lake Geneva and Swiss flag behind, Lavaux Domaine Saint-Amour wine bottle on table with Lavaux vineyards behind
The Rosé d'Amour, Œil-de-Perdrix. Gilbert & Valérie Fischer, Bourg-en-Lavaux.

I went on a Sunday and the domaine was closed — but that's actually the better version, because it becomes the honour system. There's a small fridge full of cold rosé made from the grapes immediately surrounding you. Bring cash. Leave it in the box. Take a bottle. Go downstairs to the terrace and have a picnic.

The wine is the Rosé d'Amour, an Œil-de-Perdrix — the classic Swiss pale rosé style made from Pinot Noir. It's cold, it's good, it costs what things cost in Switzerland, and you are sitting inside the vineyard it came from. This is about as correct as wine drinking gets.

"Leave cash in the box. Take a bottle. Sit on the patio with the lake below you and the Alps across the water. An A+ way to spend an afternoon."

— Dave
Lavaux vineyards with Lake Geneva and French Alps, UNESCO World Heritage site, Vaud
The view. Lake Geneva. The Alps across the water. You are sitting in those vines.

The terrace is downstairs from the small cave building — stone walls, vines growing overhead on a pergola, metal café tables, the vineyard dropping away in front of you with the lake at the bottom. Bring food. Stay as long as you want. Nobody is going to rush you.

Domaine Saint-Amour terrace with vine pergola, stone cave building, Lavaux
The terrace. Stone cave. Vine pergola. Bring a picnic.
Table on Domaine Saint-Amour terrace with Lavaux vineyards and Lake Geneva view
The table. The vineyard. An empty bottle is a good sign.
Holding bottle of Domaine Saint-Amour rosé on stone steps surrounded by flowers, Lavaux
The stone steps down from the cave to the terrace. The flowers are always there.
Lavaux vineyard road winding through terraces to Lake Geneva, Vaud Switzerland
The road through Lavaux. Walk down, walk back up. It's worth it.

Not sure exactly how it works when they're open on weekdays — probably you hand the cash to a person instead of the box. Either way, this is a good destination if you want to visit Lavaux but don't know exactly where to go. The train from Geneva gets you to Cully or Rivaz and you walk from there. No car needed. Turn up. Find the fridge. Sit in the vines.

Domaine Saint-Amour terrace, Caveau sign on stone wall, Lavaux Walking through Lavaux vineyards, Lake Geneva in background, Vaud Switzerland
The cave entrance. And the walk between the vines.
Wide panorama of Lavaux vineyards and Lake Geneva, UNESCO wine region Switzerland
Where
Route de Bourg-en-Lavaux, Riex, Vaud
Getting there
Train from Geneva or Lausanne to Cully or Rivaz. No car needed.
The wine
Rosé d'Amour, Œil-de-Perdrix. Cold. Good. From the vines you're sitting in.
Sunday tip
Closed Sundays = honour system. Fridge of cold rosé. Leave cash. Take a bottle.
Bring
Cash. Food for a picnic. Nothing else required.
Tip from
Dave · HoodTip
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