Arnavutköy Restaurant

The original restaurant is in the Arnavutköy neighbourhood, just down the Bosphorus toward the city centre, and is 100% worth going to as well. But if you find yourself further north, this is their other spot. Honestly just the best food.

If you like raki-balık — fish, raki, mezzes, water — this is the place. It's right on the Bosphorus. They let you smoke in the main room, which is open in the warmer months and can get a bit smoky in winter, but that's also a vibe and can be fun. If you're with kids, there's a little hut on the side — self-contained, right on the water, smoke-free.

Pick your fish up front. Order cold mezzes — they bring them to the table and show you very proudly. Get a hot one too, shrimps or calamari. And order a şalgam alongside your raki. It looks like dark purple pickle juice, sounds wrong, tastes extraordinary — fermented turnip, slightly sour, slightly spiced. Locals drink it alongside raki. Do not skip it.

If you like seafood and mezze and raki and being right on the water, there is no way you leave anything less than happy.