Asri Turşucu

You walk past the window and you stop. Wall-to-wall jars with red-checked lids, stacked floor to ceiling — pickled green tomatoes, carrots, beans, peppers, cucumbers, things you can't identify and need to try. The yellow taxi reflected in the glass. Since 1938, says the logo. You go in.

This is not the pickle you know. We're not talking a half sour spear on the side of a sandwich. Turkish fermentation is its own thing — vinegary, deeply savoury, the kind of flavour that makes everything you eat alongside it taste better. Asri Turşucu has been perfecting it for nearly ninety years and they have the newspaper clippings on the wall to prove it.

Get a selection to take home — the pickled green tomatoes are the move, but point at things and see what happens. Eat them over the next few days with whatever you're cooking. They make a mediocre meal good and a good meal great.