Allard.

“The polished old survivor. Allard has been serving generous French cooking since 1932. It is more polished now—it is part of Alain Ducasse’s group—but the narrow room, red upholstery and family-style classics still carry the old-bistro mood. This is a good Saint-Germain lunch when you want the whole ceremony: a proper table, a bottle of wine and food built for sharing. Do not rush it. The point is not merely to eat but to spend part of the afternoon inside an older version of Paris.”